# Arrow-making Tutorial



## Caged Maiden (Jun 15, 2012)

This is a tutorial I made after we opened this discussion: http://mythicscribes.com/forums/research/3718-ask-me-about-archery-longbows-especially.html

  It shows how to make traditional arrows and is broken into steps.

The supplies you will need are:

12 arrow shafts  3RiversArchery - Search Results for cedar shafts
12 nocks (optional)
A hacksaw blade (optional)
sandpaper
12 points  3RiversArchery - Search Results for field points
Fletch-tite and hot melt adhesive 3RiversArchery - Search Results for glue
feathers 3RiversArchery - Search Results for feather fletching
fake sinew (optional) 3RiversArchery - Search Results for artificial sinew
fletching jig (optional) 3RiversArchery - Search Results for fletching jig


A note about the supplies will accompany each post to help you decide, but I have  limited number of supplies I work with, so I can only advise on the things I have used, and based on my historical research.

Please feel free to contact me with any other questions you have about traditional arrows or quivers.  If I can, I'll do a leather quiver tutorial as well.  Thanks for your interest and support.

There are a few steps I'm not taking videos of.  The first step once you  have your dozen shafts, is to sand them.  I use 220 sandpaper and sand  until they are perfectly smooth.  Also, if you should get a shaft that  is not perfectly straight, you can straighten it by heating it with  friction (either sandpaper or your pant leg) and then gently pressing it  in the direction it needs to be straightened in while it's still hot.   You can do this once it is finished as well, but it's easier to  straighten them before you start shooting.  

A note about arrow  shafts:  I have had arrows hit and splinter on the range, and when a  shaft is compromised it is always best to retire it.  You can test its  sturdiness by gently bending the arrow.  If you hear any amount of fiber  snapping, it is time to retire the arrow.  You can salvage the point by  heating it and pulling it off with pliers, and if your fletches come  off easily, you can save those too, because they also suffer damage when  shooting.

When buying feathers, you may choose anything you like.  I'll show you how to use pre-cut feathers and how to cut your own.  Also, many archers use two different colors (known as hen feathers and cock feather) which I will discuss in the fletching tutorial, so keep that in mind when ordering.

I have no affiliation with 3 Rivers Archery, but I buy from them because it's cheaper than my local archery shop.  That being said, it is easier to buy supplies in person because you can hand select your items.  I have had fine results ordering online, but my first set of arrows I made from hand-selected materials.


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## Caged Maiden (Jun 15, 2012)

*Getting started*

reserved for supplies video


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## Caged Maiden (Jun 15, 2012)

reserved for nock cutting video


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## Caged Maiden (Jun 15, 2012)

reserved for nock-shaping video


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## Caged Maiden (Jun 15, 2012)

reserved for video 4


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## Caged Maiden (Jun 15, 2012)

reserved for video 5


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## Caged Maiden (Jun 15, 2012)

reserved for video 6


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## Caged Maiden (Jun 15, 2012)

reserved for video 7


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## Caged Maiden (Jun 15, 2012)

reserved for video 8


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## Caged Maiden (Jun 15, 2012)

reserved for video 9


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## Stuart John Evison (Jun 30, 2012)

I think I pressed the wrong button there trying to join in here, so here goes again.
I use ash for my arrow shafts carefully choosing timber with straight and tight grain, perversely I often use  pigeon feathers for the flights especially if the arrow is for a heavier bow. I buy in heads from someone like James Farrar, see Fairbow, now there's a man who knows a thing or two about making traditional English longbows.


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## SeverinR (Jul 17, 2012)

I have turkey feathers straight from the left wing.
I died them with RIT never have been able to attach them though.

----Keeping thread on front page hoping video 1 will be posted soon.----


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## KorbentMarksman (Jul 29, 2012)

Thank you very much, this was extremely helpful.


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